Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Lorne Greens




I live in Florida, and it's pretty miserable there in September. While the rest of the lower 48 is gearing up for fall and starting to feel a little nip in the air, the Sunshine State is still sweltering through the middle of hurricane season. My glasses fog up when I walk outdoors this time of year. So, after finishing up at Tourism Australia’s North American Corroboree this weekend on Hamilton Island, what’s a Floridian to do? Hop on a plane to Melbourne, where the temperatures are cool, crisp and invigorating this time of year.

I’m a fan of all the Australian cities, but Melbourne is my favorite. It is has the best quotient of “sophisticated place to friendly people” of any city I know in the world. It’s fun, you’ll eat really well, and there’s tons to do. We only had one night before hitting the Great Ocean Road, but we spent it well, with dinner at Taxi Dining Room, a truly phenomenal restaurant with views over Federation Square. Want a world class meal with a skyline through floor-to-ceiling windows as your backdrop? This is the place.

The next morning we rolled out of bed and loaded the car for our road trip down the Great Ocean Road and to the Grampians. Once out of the city, you hit the coastline in about 90 minutes, and it’s stunning. Think forested mountains descending to deserted beaches, with lots of spectacular views. It’s amazing this time of year, with no crowds or traffic. And as a Floridian who needed a break from the humidity, 60 degrees and a sweatshirt on feels great.

The Great Ocean Road is also peppered with some really fun, hip little coastal towns that provide great diversions during the drive. My favorite thus far is a town called Lorne, early on in the drive from Melbourne. Loads of great shops and restaurants – two favorites were a local produce and gourmet shop called “Lorne Greens” (the clerk had no clue that their name was a double entendre, and had never heard of “Bonanza”) and perhaps the world’s best burger – and I’ve sampled a lot of them in my time – at a mobbed little lunch spot called “The Bottle of Milk”.

After lunch, we detoured at a place called Kennett River, an “off the tourist trail” spot where you can reputedly spot koalas about half a mile up a dirt road into the forest, off the coastal highway. The tip paid off – we saw loads of koalas, including a mother with her baby, and one very entertaining acrobat contorting his/her body to reach a branch of eucalyptus leaves in ways that must mean we witnessed the first known double jointed koala. Lots of fun.

We ended the afternoon by checking into a place in Apollo Bay that can only be described as pure bliss called Chocolate Gannets. They bill themselves as luxury accommodation, and that’s underselling. Four villas, with floor to ceiling views of the ocean, a two person spa in the villa looking out on the beach, a working fireplace, a basket of breakfast provisions, and even a killer pillow menu. It’s not cheap, but what a way to close out a day of driving. I’ll be back here.

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