I'm No Sherpa

I survived the hike from hell today. I’m in the Grampians, a beautiful mountainous area about three hours west of Melbourne, with green countryside, dramatic rock outcroppings, and as much wildlife as I’ve seen anywhere in Australia. There are loads of opportunities to hike up into the wilderness, and we picked one trail classified as “medium to hard” that ventured through the “Grand Canyon of the Grampians” to an overlook called the Pinnacle.

If this hike was “medium to hard”, then “very hard” would have to be scaling a cliff using your fingernails. It was more like rock climbing, and alternated between scrambling across wet rocks and a consistently vertical ascent up a little bit of dirt path and a lot of rock. The one constant was that it was nearly vertical the whole way up. Adding to the drama was the fickle weather, which was alternately sunny and rainy every fifteen minutes or so – I layered and unlayered several times in both directions. Nearing the top – but not near enough – I felt compelled to yell “I’m not a Sherpa!” I’m not, but I have a whole lot more respect for those Nepalese who’ve made it their career.

To be fair, we saw some amazing rock formations, hiked through two narrow canyons, passed two waterfalls, and had quite the view from the top (though it was sleeting by the time we hit the summit…we didn’t have to pay extra for that). But we worked for it.

The best news was that we got to head straight for our accommodation at Boroka Downs, a 5 villa luxury retreat near Halls Gap in the Grampians, but truly in the middle of nowhere. In our cabin – which overlooks a sloping field filled with grazing kangaroos and emus most of the day – we had a wonderful two person spa tub with a view waiting for us in the villa, and a nice roaring fire to warm up. This place is heaven. The setting is as beautiful as you’ll find anywhere in Australia. You can take a walk through the woods and fields of the property first thing in the morning or at dusk, and literally see hundreds of kangaroos. Inside, it’s the best sort of splurge, with lots of creature comforts, a fully equipped kitchen they stock with lots of goodies for breakfast and otherwise, and that hot tub. I love that hot tub. Especially right now with my weary, old man bones after climbing the Grampians version of K2….